Ray’s Del Mar Breeders’ Cup Travel Guide: Coastal Bliss

I'm not an unbiased observer when it comes to Del Mar's hosting of the Breeders' Cup championships for the first time this year. Far from it. I've been coming here every summer since 1979 and never tire of the ocean breezes (though I hear they can be a little more biting in the fall and winter), the laid-back attitude or that Bing Crosby songthat gets played before and after each day's races.

It's not Saratoga, though I'm not going to get into any debates about it being better or worse, on-track or off. We can all agree that Del Mar is different, and they're both unique and wonderful places. I was reminded of that when I saw one of the track's executives walking around the offices of the Del Mar Thoroughbred Club in flip-flops the other morning. You'll see more T-shirts than neckties, at the track or around the town – though North County San Diegans do have a sense of style, especially for big race days like the traditional opening day in July or the Pacific Classic in August.

This travel guide isn't going to be about fashion, however, but what to do when you arrive in San Diego or the Del Mar area and you're not at the track. And I know there are a lot of out-of-towners coming to Del Mar for the first time who spend their summers enjoying Saratoga and all the great things it has to offer. So, over the next several days I'll be sharing thoughts about some of my favorite places and things in and around Del Mar.

On arriving, depending on the time of day, be prepared for traffic if you fly into San Diego's Lindbergh Field, John Wayne Airport in Orange County or, heaven forbid, Los Angeles International Airport. This is Southern California. The traffic sucks, not just at rush hour, but nearly any time.

If you fly into San Diego and want to wait for traffic to cool down, stop by the Ballast Point brewpub in Little Italy, just east of the airport. Little Italy also has some very good (you guessed it!) Italian restaurants. Ballast Point was one of the first microbreweries in the area, founded in 1996 by Jack White, whose interest in making his own beer during college led to a $1 billion jackpot when he sold the company to Constellation Brands in 2015.

The food at Ballast Point is pretty good (as brewpubs go) and the variety of beers is outstanding. The Little Italy location is used as something of a test laboratory for new brews, so go ahead and be a researcher – but always in moderation.

The whole San Diego area has seen an explosion in the craft beer business. Take a look at this map showing all the craft brewers in the area. There's even a new brewpub, Viewpoint Brewing Co., steps from Del Mar racetrack across Jimmy Durante Bouleard south of the San Dieguito River.

But enough about beer.

If you arrive during daylight and are staying in Del Mar, get off the freeway and enjoy some of the most beautiful coastline you'll ever see just to the north of Torrey Pines State Reserve. The hiking trails at the reserve can help get rid of some of those craft beer calories and get you in shape mentally for the 13 Breeders' Cup championship races and the Wednesday and Thursday cards that precede it. More info on the reserve here.

The Pacific sunsets can be as spectacular as you'll ever see – provided there is no marine layer or clouds. Good spots for viewing include Jake's on the beach or its neighbor, the Poseidonrestaurant.

Monday's post position draw and many other events are taking place just south of Jake's at Powerhouse Park at the newly minted “Barn at the Beach” on Coast Boulevard, just below L'Auberge Del Mar hotel, where many Breeders' Cup VIPs will be staying.

To be continued …

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